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Eastern Townships
Article by Michael Fagin Meteorologist,
Travel Writer and Wine Enthusiast
Dunham, Quebec
Slate, gold, and ice: the Cantons de l'Est Terroir
The literal definition of the French word terroir is taste of the soil . To modern wine connoisseurs, a terroir is a group of vineyards from the same region sharing soil types, weather conditions, and wine-making savoir-faire. Terroirs have their own distinct personalities. The terroir of Quebec's Eastern Townships is no exception. And like their unique qualities, each terroir also has its own unique history.
Lying east of Montreal, the Eastern Townships ( Cantons de l'Est) possess a history rich in cultures. The area's first peoples were the Abenaki (“dawn land people” or “easterners”) The Abenaki named many of the region's landmarks, such as Lake Memphremagog ( Lac Memphremagog) meaning "where there is a big expanse of water," and the Missisquoi River (Riviere Missisquoi) translated as "lots of waterfowl".
British Loyalists came to the Townships fleeing the American colonies during and after the American War of Independence from 1776 to 1783. Remaining loyal to the British Crown these migrants were welcomed by British Canada with open arms and generous land grants.
In 1840, Irish Catholics arrived escaping the potato famine that plagued their homeland. Leaving crowded conditions farther north, French Canadians settled into the region in large numbers around 1850. Arriving first as summer farm laborers, they soon settled in many of the townships. And finally, determined to ensure that the area would be loyal to Britain, instead of France or the USA, the British American Land Company (BALC) played a significant role in attracting British citizens to the region by publishing settlement pamphlets that boasted of a great lifestyle in the Eastern Townships.
Domaine des Cotes d'Ardosie
What about wine in the townships? That story begins much later with Chris tian Barthomeuf of France, considered one of the pioneer's of viticulture in Quebec. In 1980 in the township of Dunham, he started the Domaine des Cotes d'Ardosie. Many of the townships' residents thought that it was a foolhardy venture to grow wine grapes in such a harsh environment. But, Chris tian proved them wrong. Nearly three decades later, Domaine des Cotes d'Ardosie as well as many other wineries in the region are doing quite well.
Ardoise, is French for slate, denoting the extensive pockets of this rock on Barthomeuf's property as well throughout the Eastern Townships. Slate may not directly contribute to the taste (terroir) of these wines, but its attribute of draining rainfall well may have an influence. This winery produces hardy white wines like Riesling and Seyval that typically do well in a cool climate. The winery is graced with sculptures from local exhibitors.
Wind machines in vineyard of Vignoble de l'Orphailleur -
Photo by Elizabeth Fagin
Dunham is also home to Vignoble de l'Orphailleur, one of the five original wineries of Quebec. l'Orphailleur means “gold seeker.” And while there may not exactly be “gold in them there hills,” this wine has a golden taste. Growing wine in this harsh environment however may require a little gold as it's a costly process. Vignoble de l'Orphailleur first deployed and perfected the costly but critical process of “earthing up or buttage.” This process is used at the end of the harvest banking soil up against lower parts of the vine to protect it from frost. Then in April or May the soil is removed through a labor intensive process requiring special tractor equipment.
Vignoble de l'Orphailleur is also noted for its fine restaurant serving locally grown foods. Patrons can start off with a yam-based vegetable soup. Then perhaps move to a deer meat pâté garnished with a cranberry sauce.
Entrées served include grilled chicken with potatoes. After enjoying lunch at the restaurant, be sure to allot time for visiting the Wine Museum on the grounds. Read some of the poems that were commissioned to be placed on many of the vintner's wine bottles.
One of the newer wineries in the Eastern Townships is Val Caudalie. Originally an apple orchard, Val Caudalie specializes i n ice cider as well as icewine. Ice, gold and slate; three solid characteristics of the Eastern Townships Terroir, a region of rich history and rich wines.
Additional stories by Michael Fagin, Icewine, Eastern Townships, Montreal
For more information on Eastern Township Wineries
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